Techniques and Training for Speed Climbing

Struggling to scale that climbing wall faster? We’ve been there. After years of practice and research, we’ve learned that speed climbing requires a unique blend of specialized techniques and rigorous training.

In this article, we’ll guide you through efficient strategies and exercises to optimally enhance your climbing speed. Ready to reach new heights?.

Techniques for Speed Climbing

– Matching feet on handholds: One technique used in speed climbing is matching the feet on handholds, which allows climbers to quickly move up the wall by using their lower body strength and balance.

Matching feet on handholds

Mastering the art of matching your feet on handholds is a cornerstone technique for speed climbing. This skill allows for swift movement up the wall, conserving precious energy and time.

It involves quickly placing both feet on a single hold, offering leverage to propel ourselves further up. In our quick ascents, employing this method correctly can mean shaving seconds off our climb time – an edge that often makes all the difference in competitions.

Understandably, it requires significant hip-flexor strength and inner thigh range of motion; two elements we emphasize in training drills for aspiring speed climbers like us. We should begin including these exercises into our training routine if we haven’t already to optimize the effectiveness of this vital technique in accelerating our climbs.


Jump-starts are a technique used in speed climbing to quickly gain momentum and propel yourself up the wall. By using your legs to push off forcefully, you can generate more power and acceleration.

This technique is especially helpful when starting a climb or transitioning between holds. To perform a jump-start, focus on exploding off the footholds while simultaneously pulling yourself up with your arms.

The key is to coordinate your movements and use your entire body for maximum efficiency. Jump-starts require both strength and precision, so practicing them regularly will help improve your speed climbing performance.


Dynos, short for dynamic moves, are an essential technique in speed climbing. They involve launching yourself from one hold to another without stopping in between. Dynos require explosive power and precise timing to be successful.

By using the momentum generated from your legs and arms, you can cover more distance in less time. To execute a dyno, start by engaging your core muscles and bending your legs deeply.

As you push off with your legs, extend your arms to reach for the next hold. It’s important to let go of any fear or hesitation when attempting a dyno and commit fully to the move.


Drop-knees are a technique used in speed climbing that can help you navigate tricky holds and maintain balance on the wall. This move involves bending one knee while keeping the other leg straight, allowing you to shift your weight and gain reach without using as much energy.

By dropping your knee into position, you create stability and increase efficiency in your movement. Drop-knees require hip-flexor strength and flexibility, so it’s important to incorporate exercises that target these muscles into your training routine.

Practicing drop-knees during specific climbing drills will improve your overall technique and help you move more swiftly up the wall. Remember, speed climbing is all about finding ways to climb faster with less effort, so mastering the drop-knee technique can make a significant difference in your performance.

Leg swings

Leg swings are a vital technique to master for speed climbing. By swinging our legs back and forth with controlled momentum, we can generate the necessary power to propel ourselves upwards on the wall.

This movement engages our hip flexors and allows us to reach higher holds more efficiently. As amateur rock climbers, practicing leg swings will improve our agility and help us move swiftly through the climbing route.

Remember that finding the right balance between strength and control is key in executing smooth leg swings. So let’s focus on incorporating this technique into our training regime for faster and more efficient climbs!

Silent feet

In speed climbing, every move counts. It’s all about efficiency and conserving energy as you make your way up the wall. One technique that can help with this is having “silent feet.” This means being mindful of your foot placement and making sure to place them quietly on the holds without creating unnecessary noise or vibrations.

By doing this, you not only reduce wasted energy but also increase your overall stability while climbing. So as you tackle those challenging routes, remember to focus on keeping your feet silent and steady to improve your speed and agility on the wall.

Training for Speed Climbing

– Strengthen your hip flexors with targeted exercises to improve your speed climbing performance.

– Incorporate specific climbing drills into your training routine to enhance your technique and efficiency on the wall.

– Analyze and study different climbing movements to understand how to execute them more effectively in a speedy manner.

– Increase your overall fitness and endurance through regular cardio and strength training sessions.

Hip-flexor strength exercises

Building strong hip flexors is crucial for speed climbing. These muscles play a major role in generating power and propelling you up the wall. Here are some hip-flexor strength exercises to incorporate into your training routine:

  1. Leg Raises: Lie on your back with your legs straight. Lift one leg off the ground, keeping it as straight as possible, and hold for a few seconds before lowering it back down. Repeat on the other leg. Aim for 3 sets of 10 reps on each leg.
  2. Hanging Knee Raises: Find a pull-up bar or hangboard and hang from it with your arms fully extended. Slowly raise your knees towards your chest, squeezing your hip flexors at the top of the movement, then lower them back down. Repeat for 3 sets of 10 reps.
  3. Russian Twists: Sit on the ground with your knees bent and feet flat on the floor. Lean back slightly while keeping your back straight and core engaged. Hold a medicine ball or weight plate with both hands and rotate your torso from side to side, touching the weight to the ground on each side. Aim for 3 sets of 15 reps.
  4. Lunges: Stand with one foot forward and one foot back in a staggered stance. Lower yourself into a lunge position by bending both knees until they form 90-degree angles, then push through the front heel to return to standing. Alternate legs and aim for 3 sets of 10 reps on each leg.

Specific climbing drills

To improve your speed climbing skills, incorporating specific climbing drills into your training routine is essential. These drills focus on building strength, improving technique, and increasing agility. Here are some specific climbing drills that can help you become a faster and more efficient climber:

  1. Bouldering circuits: Create a circuit of boulder problems that target different aspects of speed climbing, such as dynos, drop-knees, and jump-starts. Perform each problem with maximum intensity, aiming to complete the circuit in the shortest amount of time possible.
  2. Interval training: Set up a timer and climb routes or boulders at a rapid pace for short bursts of time, followed by brief periods of rest. This type of interval training helps simulate the intense bursts of effort required during speed climbing competitions.
  3. Silent feet exercises: Focus on maintaining quiet and precise footwork while climbing. Practice placing your feet gently on holds without making any noise. This drill enhances your body awareness and control while moving quickly.
  4. Reaction time drills: Improve your reaction time by incorporating quick-response exercises into your training routine. Use visual cues or have a partner randomly call out holds for you to touch or grab as fast as possible.
  5. Acceleration drills: Work on increasing your acceleration when moving between holds by focusing on explosive movements and generating power through your legs and core muscles.

Analyzing climbing movement

To improve our speed climbing abilities, it’s crucial to analyze and understand our climbing movement. By studying the way we move up the wall or rope, we can identify areas for improvement and make adjustments that will help us climb faster and more efficiently.

This involves paying attention to every detail of our technique, from foot placements to hand positions. We also need to focus on our movement cadence, finding a rhythm that allows for quick and fluid transitions between holds.

Analyzing climbing movement helps us conserve energy while making swift progress up the wall—a key skill in speed climbing.

Increasing overall fitness and endurance

To excel in speed climbing, it is crucial to focus on increasing overall fitness and endurance. Here are some key ways to achieve this:

  1. Engage in regular cardiovascular exercise: Running, cycling, or swimming are excellent options that will help improve your stamina and lung capacity.
  2. Incorporate strength training into your routine: Target specific muscle groups used in climbing, such as the core, upper body, and legs. Exercises like pull-ups, push-ups, squats, and planks will contribute to your overall strength and endurance.
  3. Practice interval training: This involves alternating between high-intensity bursts of activity and periods of recovery. It simulates the demands of speed climbing and helps build cardiovascular fitness.
  4. Include plyometric exercises: These explosive movements enhance power and speed. Jumping lunges, box jumps, and medicine ball slams are excellent examples that can improve your ability to quickly move up the wall.
  5. Endurance-focused climbing sessions: Spend time practicing routes with a sustained pace to improve your climbing endurance. Set a target time for completing each route, gradually increasing the difficulty as you progress.
  6. Incorporate circuit training: Create a circuit that includes climbing-specific exercises like traversing on bouldering walls or using specific handholds for targeted muscle engagement.
  7. Don’t underestimate the importance of rest days: Allow your body time to recover from intense workouts by incorporating rest days into your training schedule. This will prevent overtraining and reduce the risk of injury.


In conclusion, mastering the techniques and training methods for speed climbing can greatly improve a climber’s performance and speed on the wall. By focusing on specific movements like matching feet on handholds, jump-starts, and dynos, climbers can accelerate their climbing ability.

Additionally, incorporating hip-flexor strength exercises and overall fitness training will enhance endurance and agility necessary for speedy ascents. With dedication to technique and conditioning, amateur rock climbers can take their skills to new heights in the exciting world of speed climbing.


1. What are some techniques for speed climbing?

Some techniques for speed climbing include using efficient footwork, utilizing momentum and dynamic movements, and employing proper body positioning to minimize energy expenditure.

2. How can I improve my speed climbing skills?

To improve your speed climbing skills, it is important to focus on strength and endurance training specific to the demands of speed climbing. Additionally, practicing technique drills and honing mental focus can also help enhance performance.

3. Are there any safety considerations when speed climbing?

Safety is paramount in any form of climbing, including speed climbing. It is crucial to use proper protective gear such as helmets and harnesses, ensure secure anchor points, maintain good communication with belayers or spotters, and constantly assess risks while making quick decisions.

4. Can beginners engage in speed climbing?

Speed climbing requires a certain level of experience and skill due to its fast-paced nature and technical demands. Beginners are advised to first gain proficiency in traditional rock or sport climbing before attempting speed climbing under the guidance of experienced climbers or trainers who can provide appropriate instruction and supervision.

Calvin Rivers

Hey, I’m Calvin Rivers, a climbing veteran with 10+ years on crags and walls around the world. I can’t wait for you to explore our site and fall in love with the outdoors just like I have.

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